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COLD WEATHER DRIVING TIPS Fall and winter are hard on improperly maintained automobiles. Cold temperatures can increase wear on tires, belts, and hoses, render weak batteries useless, and can cause inadequately protected engine cooling systems to freeze. Motorists unfortunate enough to experience a winter breakdown can also find themselves facing life-threatening weather in addition to the dilemmas of unsafe or unfamiliar surroundings. MAKE SURE YOUR CAR IS PREPARED FOR COLD WEATHER Here are some tips to follow when preparing for cold weather driving. Air Filter: In cold weather a dirty or clogged air filter will do more to affect performance and fuel economy than in the summer months. Cold air is denser than warm air and is more dependent on a clean filter to flow efficiently into the carburetor or fuel injection system for complete combustion. Battery: In winter temperatures it can take up to five times more battery power to start a car than when the thermometer reads a mild 65 or 75 degrees. If the battery or any other part of the car's electrical system is in marginal shape, you will have difficulty in cold weather. If your battery is more than three years old, the typical lifespan of most batteries, you are probably living on borrowed time. Have a mechanic or automotive technicians run a battery load test and check the complete electrical system, including the battery's reserve capacity. Replace severely corroded connectors. Have your voltage regulator checked, too. Cooling System: Flush the system and fill with the anti-freeze (coolant)/water mixture recommended by your owner's manual (a 50/50 solution is a good rule of thumb). Gasoline: Always keep the gas tank as full as possible to minimize condensation, and prevent fuel contamination. Modern engines with fuel injection are especially fussy about getting their fill of clean gas. Ignition: Wet weather can dampen an enthusiastic response from your car's engine, especially if it is an older car without electronic ignition. Worn points in the distributor, an old condenser, or a cracked distributor cap, combined with moisture, can make a car hard to start. And on cars of any age, frayed spark plug wires or dirty spark plugs will also cause starting problems. Starting: Let your car warm up from one to two minutes before driving during winter temperatures so the oil circulates to all moving parts. Tires: On most new cars, all-season radial tires are standard equipment. They work well under most weather conditions. Check tire pressure once a week, especially in cold weather. Pressure can drop one pound per square inch (psi) for every ten degrees that the temperature drops. Remember to be sure that your spare tire is also properly inflated. Windshield Wiper and Washers: Check your wipers for proper functioning. Wiper blades that streak the windshield should be replaced. Worn out wiper blades could also scratch your windshield. The washer reservoir bottle should be filled with an anti-freeze washer solvent. Sometimes you will hear windshield wiper chatter when your wipers are working? This is because of an oily film that develops on your windshield. To cure that problem, wipe your windshield down with rubbing alcohol. The cold months are the hardest on your car.  The sooner you are prepared, the better off you will be as we face cold weather outbreaks.  Make sure your vehicle is in peak operating condition by having it inspected by a Jiffy Lube today!  All of our services include an inspection and report of all of these items!   EXTRAS TO CARRY WITH YOU - SOME CAN SAVE YOUR LIFE! Tire chains (practice installing before you get into the snow) Small snow shovel Extra clothing (including hat) Work gloves Blanket Traction mats (floor mats will work) Ice scraper (plastic, not metal) Booster cables (good ones) Small bag of abrasive materials for traction (sand, salt, or kitty litter) Flashlight Cloth or roll of paper towels Fire extinguisher Warning devices-reflective triangles or battery-powered flashers food, water, and any medications you may need  Put an extra car key in you pocket. A number of motorists have locked themselves out of their cars when putting on chains and at ski areas. Weather conditions may warrant detouring traffic from the main roadway. It is strongly suggested that drivers always keep an updated map containing the areas of travel. A FINAL TIP Sometimes, after driving through slush or heavy snow, you might observe a bad vibration in the vehicle. This can be caused by mud, slush, or snow adhering to the inside surface of your wheels because of centrifugal force. At highway speeds, the additional weight throws the wheel balance off, producing a vibration. To remedy this situation, try taking a high-pressure water hose and cleaning the inside surface of your wheels as soon as you can. TIPS WHILE ON THE ROAD Here are some suggestions to help you avoid problems associated with driving during cold weather: Keep your speed down when driving on wet roads. Excessive speed is the major cause of accidents during the winter. Remember, the posted speed limits are for dry weather, not wet, slippery roads. Leave extra distance between your car and the vehicle in front of you. This will allow you the extra time necessary to respond to any situation. You will also need more room to stop in case of emergency. If your are driving on a four (or more) lane highway that's wet, leave yourself an "out". Do not drive at the same speed right next to someone who may slide into you on a slippery road. Whenever possible, use low gears when driving downhill and around curves on wet roads. For stopping on ice and snow, lightly apply your brakes. This also applies to vehicles with anti-lock braking systems. To begin driving on ice and snow, do it slowly for maximum traction and less wheel spinning. On very slick surfaces, start in second gear to prevent wheel spinning. If you are required to use chains, I would never drive over 25 mph. Your chains, car body, and tires will remain in better shape if you drive at a lower speed. If you find yourself in a skid, do not brake heavily, do not jerk the steering wheel, and do not panic. Instead, turn your steering wheel into the direction of the skid and gently brake. When parking in freezing weather, avoid using the parking brake. The brake linings could freeze to the brake drum and disk. If necessary, block tires with rocks or other heavy objects. Use your seatbelt every time you get in your car and insist on it for all passengers.

 

• Chain Requirements:

• R1: Chains, traction devices or snow tires are required on the drive axle of all vehicles except four wheel/ all wheel drive vehicles.
• R2: Chains or traction devices are required on all vehicles except four wheel/ all wheel drive vehicles with snow-tread tires on all four wheels.
• (NOTE: Four wheel/all wheel drive vehicles must carry traction devices in chain control areas.)
• R3: Chains or traction devices are required on all vehicles, no exceptions.

 

• Chain Controls:

• You must stop and put on chains when highway signs indicate chains are required. You can be cited by the California Highway Patrol and fined if you don't. You will usually have about a mile between "Chains Required" signs and the checkpoint to install your chains.
• Control areas can change rapidly from place to place because of changing weather and road conditions.
• The speed limit when chains are required is 25 or 30 miles an hour.
• When you put on chains, wait until you can pull completely off the roadway to the right. Do not stop in a traffic lane where you will endanger yourself and block traffic.
• Chain Installers: If you use the services of a chain installer, be sure to get a receipt and jot the installer's badge number on it. Remember, chain installers are independent business people, not Caltrans employees. Having the badge number may help with any misunderstandings later. Chain installers are NOT allowed to sell or rent chains.
• When removing chains, drive beyond the signs reading "End of Chain Control" to a pull-off area where you can safely remove them.
• Before Driving, Check with Caltrans Highway Information Network. 800-427-7623

 

10 Reasons why spring cleaning should include your car

Spring brings the need for cleaning and other improvements around the house, the yard and the wardrobe. Attention should also be devoted to your car and it should include a lot more than cleaning the exterior and interior. One needs to recognize the harsh conditions your prized vehicle went through this past winter. Here are 10 steps you can take to get it back in shape!

1.  As folks invariably take shorter errands during the winter, the engine rarely reaches its proper operating temperature. This can contribute to a drain on the battery and electrical system and reduce the longevity of spark plugs. So, check the plugs and the battery.

2.  Cold weather and short-trip driving are two criteria that constitute severe driving. Most manufacturers recommend that drivers in this category should change the oil every 3,000 miles. The winter is especially taxing on the engine. A lot of wear and tear takes place by turning the ignition on during the cold months. Gas can stick on cylinder walls, and when released upon starting, creates more than the optimum amount to its mixture with oil. Cold starts also melt the condensation that forms inside of the engine during the winter and can contaminate the oil. An oil change as part of an overall vehicle maintenance service will help put 'spring' back into your prized possession. Jiffy Lube can check and change all vital fluids based on manufacturers' recommendations.

3.  Make sure all hoses and belts are checked after the tough winter.

4.  Check the treads of tires for small stones that thawed ice may have left behind.

5.  Water will have seeped into various joints and hinges of the hood, trunk top and all doors during the winter; wipe clean and lubricate all of these points.

6.  When you give the exterior of the car a good wash, don't forget to spray underneath. Salt and mud will have accumulated in the undercarriage of the vehicle and should be flushed away.

7.  Make sure to check that the windshield wiper blades are in good shape; you may have inadvertently damaged them while scraping away ice during the winter.

8.  If you had a roadside emergency during the winter, you may have used the flashlight, flares, extra wiper fluid or other materials. Take inventory to make sure everything is in good working order or replacements are made.

9.  Vacuuming the interior and removing trash and any unnecessary objects that accumulated over the winter not only improves the appearance but also reduces weight, which increases engine efficiency.

10.  Speaking of efficiency, following all of these tips can lead to less gas consumption, so you spend a little more on enjoying the onset of Spring!

 

How often should I change my oil?

Most vehicle manufacturers recommend changing the oil once a year or every 7,500 miles in passenger car and light truck gasoline engines. For diesel engines and turbocharged gasoline engines, the usual recommendation is every 3,000 miles or six months.

If you read the fine print, however, you'll discover that the once a year, 7,500 mile oil change is for vehicles that are driven under ideal circumstances. What most of us think of as "normal" driving is actually "severe service" driving. This includes frequent short trips (less than 10 miles, especially during cold weather), stop-and-go city traffic driving, driving in dusty conditions (gravel roads, etc.), and driving at sustained highway speeds during hot weather. For this type of driving, which is actually "severe service: driving, the recommendation is to change the oil every 3,000 miles or six months.

For maximum protection, most oil companies say to change the oil every 3,000 miles or three months regardless of what type of driving you do.

A new engine with little or no wear can probably get by on 7,500 mile oil changes. But as an engine accumulates miles, blowby increases. This dumps more unburned fuel into the crankcase which dilutes the oil. This causes the oil to break down. So if the oil isn't changed often enough, you can end up with accelerated wear and all the engine problems that come with it (loss of performance and fuel economy, and increased emissions and oil consumption).

What type of oil is best for my engine?

The type specified by the vehicle manufacturer in your owner's manual. For most passenger car and light truck gasoline engines today, it's any oil that meets the American Petroleum Institutes "SH" rating.

As for the viscosity of oil to use, most new engines today require a multi-viscosity 5W-30 oil for all-round driving. The lighter 5W-30 oils contain friction reducing additives that help improve fuel economy, and also allow the oil to quickly reach critical upper valve-train components when a cold engine is first started. Most engine wear occurs immediately after a cold start, so it's important to have oil that is thin enough to circulate easily -- especially at cold temperatures.

For older engines and ones that are driven at sustained highways speeds during hot weather, 10W-30 or 10W-40 is a good choice. Heavier multi-viscosity oils such as 20W-40 are for high rpm, high-load applications primarily and are not recommended for cold weather driving.

For the ultimate in high temperature protection, durability and all-round performance, synthetic oils are the way to go. Unfortunately, most synthetic oils cost up to three times as much as ordinary petroleum-based oils. They cost more because synthetics are manmade rather than refined from petroleum. But this improves their performance in virtually every aspect:

• Superior temperature resistance. Synthetics can safely handle higher operating temperatures without oxidizing (burning) or breaking down. The upper limit for most mineral based oils is about 250 to 300 degrees F. Synthetics can take up to 450 degrees F. or higher. This makes synthetics well-suited for turbo applications as well as high rpm and high output engine applications.
• Better low temperature performance. Synthetics flow freely at subzero temperatures, pouring easily at -40 or -50 degrees F. where ordinary oils turn to molasses. This makes for easier cold starts and provides faster upper valve-train lubrication during the first critical moments when most engine wear occurs.
• Better engine performance. Synthetics tend to be more slippery than their petroleum-based counterparts, which improves fuel economy, cuts frictional horsepower losses and helps the engine run cooler. The difference isn't great, but it can make a noticeable difference.

 

CAUTION: For vehicles under warranty, extending the normal change interval is not recommended because failing to follow the OEM's maintenance schedule can void your warranty.

Synthetics are available in the same grades as ordinary motor oils (5W-30, 5W-20 and 10W-30) as well as "extended" grades such as 15W-50 and even 5W-50.

There are also lower-cost synthetic "blends" that combine synthetic and petroleum-based oils in the same container. But you can do your own blend to save money by simply substituting a quart or two of synthetic oil for conventional oil when you change oil. Synthetics are compatible with conventional motor oils.

Who uses a synthetic oil? The premium-priced oil is best for:

• Turbocharged or supercharged engines
• Performance or high output engines
• Vehicles used for towing (especially during hot weather)
• Vehicles that are operated in extremely cold or hot climates
• Anyone who wants the ultimate in lubrication and protection

 

Eight tips "Rain Down" on careful drivers

The return of warmer weather means rain instead of snow for most of the country, which can be heavy in some regions. The saying 'April showers bring May flowers' can be a subtle warning for drivers as well. Here are eight tips for getting the car ready for rain and driving under such conditions:

1.  Be prepared. You can check your wiper blades and replace them if they feel 'pitted' or rough to the touch. Ice or small pebbles on the windshield may have damaged them during the winter. Jiffy Lube service centers can check tires and windshield wiper blades along with fluid levels as part of overall preventive maintenance.

2.  Flash your headlights at both low and high beams before heading out to see if all of the bulbs are working.

3.  Slow down. Driving a little slower on wet surfaces is always a good idea.

4.  Try to maintain at least two car lengths behind the car in front of you.

5.  On major turnpikes and highways, try to use the center lane as water collects in the outer lanes.

6.  Use headlights and windshield defrosters to make sure you can see what's ahead and behind you as clearly as possible.

7.  Check the breaks by tapping them lightly.

8.  Have the car checked after you drive in heavy rain or if the car was parked in the street during flood conditions. Water breaks down important vehicle lubrication fluids. Vehicles that have been exposed to water levels may lack lubrication protection, which could lead to breakdowns and expensive repairs. The seals that protect many vital mechanisms and electronics are not designed to withstand any more than brief exposure to water. Plus, minor damage from water may worsen if not treated and can become more expensive repairs later.

 

 

Buckle Up Baby

Pregnancy and Seat Belts

During pregnancy, the position of your seat belt is more important than ever. According to the National Highway Traffic and Safety Administration (NHTSA), lap belts, as well as the lap portion of a lap-shoulder belt combination, should be placed low across the hips and over the upper thighs. They must lie snugly over the pelvis, one of the stronger bones of the body. Never place the belt over the abdomen. Adjust the shoulder belt for a snug fit. If it cuts across your neck, reposition your car seat for a better fit.

Taking these simple precautions may feel a little uncomfortable or unusual at first, but you should be able to get used to them quickly.

Child Restraint Safety

Many states have laws requiring the use of seat belts and child safety seats. Here are some statistics from NHTSA regarding the importance of using proper child restraints whenever you travel:

• Automobile crashes are the leading cause of death for children aged four to 14.
• Every day in 2001, six children 0-14 years old were killed and 732 more were injured in automobile crashes in the U.S.
• Proper lap and shoulder safety belt use reduces the risk of fatal injury to front seat occupants of passenger cars (ages five years and older) by 45 percent. Fatal injury risk is reduced by 60 percent for front-seat occupants of light trucks.
• Proper child safety seat use reduces fatality risk for infants (less than one year old) by 71 percent and toddlers (1-4 years old) by 54 percent in passenger cars. Reductions for infants and toddlers in light trucks are 58 percent and 59 percent, respectively.

 

More information on the proper use of child safety restraints is available at: National Highway Traffic Safety Administration.

Air Bags

NHTSA reports physicians do not recommend turning off air bags for pregnant passengers or drivers. There is only a serious risk if you are very close to the air bag cover (within 2-3 inches) when the air bag deploys.

In 1998, the Transportation Equity Act was passed to allow repair shops and dealers to install air bag "on-off" switches under special circumstances. NHTSA identified these situations as follows:

• Drivers and passengers who have been advised by physicians that an air bag poses a special risk to them.
• Drivers and passengers who cannot position themselves to properly operate the vehicle with the center of their breastbone at least 10 inches back from the center of the driver air bag cover. (At progressively shorter distances, the chances of being saved by an air bag decreases and the chance of being injured by it increases).
• Those who must travel with infants or children under 12 years of age in the front seat because the vehicle has no rear seat, the rear seat is too small to accommodate a rear-facing child restraint, more children must be transported than can be accommodated by the rear seat, or because it is necessary to constantly monitor the child's medical condition.
• Infants should never ride in the front seat of a vehicle with a passenger-side air bag. If children between one and 12 years old must sit in the front seat, ensure they use seat belts and/or child restraints appropriate for their size or weight. Also, move their seat as far back as possible.

 

Since children can put themselves in danger by leaning forward or slipping out of their shoulder belts, you may wish to get a switch to turn off the air bag. Keep in mind, dealers and repair shops cannot perform this work without written authorization from the NHTSA.

You can visit National Highway Traffic Safety Administration for more information.